If you’re looking for other ideas, you can find all sorts of DIY Halloween Costume Ideas HERE.
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Thanks for all the love for that little Rapunzel Costume I shared the other day.
It really was a fun dress to make…….and I seriously appreciate all those sweeter than sweet comments. Someone even emailed me and asked if I could adopt her, so that I could make her dresses too. (Yep Susan, I’m totally talking about you…ha!) I seriously laughed right out loud. And then told her if she cleaned her room without asking, she was totally welcome to join the Johnston family. (Because maybe she’d rub off on my kids!!)
UPDATE: And here’s the Pascal Costume, in case you’d like a peek at that too!
Anyway, you know I was just excited to move on to the next costume in the Tangled group.
And…….oh, my heart.
Seeing Connor is his little costume makes me melt. And laugh. And feel completely satisfied with sewing. Oh gosh, this little Flynn Rider wins me right over! :)
Just don’t look to closely……or this little Flynn will try and capture your heart through his smolder.
(It’s too late for me…ha!)
Connor was completely excited to play the part of the adventurous Flynn. (And was equally thrilled when I used some eyeliner to draw on his goatee.)
The costume isn’t an exact replica……but it’s pretty darn close. And with each detail, my smile grew wider and wider……so happy that it was actually turning out. (I LOVE that feeling of complete surprise!)
And yeah, the frying pan was totally Rapunzel’s thing……but I bought a teeny little egg pan, just for effect. That way, there was no mistaking that this kid was Flynn Rider from ‘Tangled’…..and not just some other boy costume. Oh, and Flynn didn’t actually carry around a sword either. But Connor threw out a request……and his daddy was THRILLED to make him one. (That husband of mine never ignores a request for such things!) So just go with it… :)
However, Flynn DID carry around a satchel. And don’t you dare call this a purse….because Connor will correct you in a heartbeat. And will tell you that this is his SATCHEL.
Oh, and the pants were a very simple elastic waist design. And the boots? Oh, those are borrowed from his big sister. (Hey, it works!)
And all of that together…….we have the most handsome little Flynn ever. (Unless you’re making a Flynn costume for your own little guy…..then yours will be the cutest Flynn ever!)
Now, Flynn’s on a mission. And that may or may not involve stealing something.
Success……..the crown has been stolen!! :)
But that darn Rapunzel…….she tricked poor Flynn and hid the crown from him.
And so he was forced to take her back through the forest, to see the lanterns. (Don’t tell Rapunzel…..but we all know that Flynn was kinda thrilled with the idea from the very beginning.)
Sweet Connor. You have such a vibrant imagination.
Now, go enjoy your costume as you fight your way back to the palace, escape being captured, and win the heart of that dear Rapunzel.
Would you like to make your own Flynn Rider costume??
Okay, skip the delay…..and hop right on this! :)
Here are the supplies I needed to make Connor’s costume…..in about a size 5/6.
Supplies:
First of all, I used one of Connor’s button up shirts as a guide, to create a pattern for my vest, just like this Reversible Vest.
For the front vest pattern piece, slope the inner edge with a slight curve.
You will need a front pattern piece and a back pattern piece (that you’ll use to cut fabric on the fold).
Then cut 2 back pieces (on the fold) and 4 front pieces (2 left pieces and 2 right pieces). Make sure that you have included a seam allowance with your pattern piece or eyeball a seam allowance very carefully as you’re cutting.
Then, sew two front pieces to one of back pieces…..at the shoulders only, with right sides together. Do the same with the other front pieces and single back piece.
Now, cut 2 strips of fabric that are 1 1/2 inches wide…..and long enough to reach across each of the front sides of the vest, at an angle. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew each into a tube with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Turn each tube right side out and iron flat. (Need help turning a tube right side out??)
Turn one of the vest sections right side out. (It doesn’t matter which one….but whichever one you pick will become the outer vest fabric and the other will become the lining.) Position the strips of fabric along the front of the left and right vest pieces, making sure you’re pinning it to the “right” side of the vest fabric.
Then sew your two strips in place, nice and close to both edges of each strip.
Next, the collar.
Measure around the neck of the vest and a few inches down the front on each side. You will be cutting 2 rectangle strips of fabric that are that same length, plus an extra 1/2 inch for a seam allowance (mine were 16 inches long, as a reference). I cut my strips 2 1/2 inches wide…but this can vary, depending on the size vest you’re making (just be sure to add a little extra for a seam allowance). Now, round the 2 corners along one side of both strips of fabric, like shown below.
Cut out 2 pieces of interfacing, the same shape as these two collar pieces….and iron them to the “wrong” side of each collar piece.
Then, place the two collar pieces together with “right” sides together, and sew them together along the curved side…
…and leave the straight edge open.
Then clip the curves, eliminating some excess fabric. (Why clip the curves??)
Turn right side out and iron the collar flat. Then top-stitch, nice and close to the sewn/curved edge.
Next, open up the vest piece (that you sewed the strips to), with the “right” side of the fabric facing up. Center the collar along the neck of the vest and pin the straight edge to the curve of the neck of the vest. Start at the center of the neck and the center of the collar and pin them together. Then gradually pin more together, bit by bit…..working your way outwards to each end of your collar.
Sew together, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (or whatever seam allowance you gave yourself when creating your pattern).
Now, measure the opening of one of the arm curves of your vest.
Cut 2 strips for each arm hole opening that same length, in the same way that you cut the pieces for your collar. I made these slightly more narrow though….but it’s up to you. (I cut these strips 2 inches wide and the collar pieces I cut 2 1/2 inches wide.)
Attach fusible interfacing to each of the four pieces and then sew them together just like you made the collar….and then pin each one to each arm hole opening.
Sew them in place.
Then fold your vest in place…..and your collar and sleeve pieces should perk up and take shape.
Next, grab your outer vest piece and your lining vest piece and place them together with “right” sides together. Pin the two layers together along the bottom edges and up the inner edges…….but not going past the two shoulder seams. Sew the two layers together, just like shown with the red lines below…..leaving the the neck section open, between the two shoulder seams.
Then, clip the curves of the inner edges. (Why should you clip the curves??)
And then clip both sewn corners at the bottom.
Now, pin the shoulder curves together, and sew the layers together (like shown in red below).
Then, clip the curves of each shoulder curve. (Why should you clip the curves??)
Then, pin the bottom curve of the back sections of the vest together (still with right sides together) and then sew the two layers together, like shown in red below.
Clip these curves as well.
Now, it’s time to turn the vest the right side out. Pull one of the vest fronts right side out through the opening in the neck.
Pull the other side of the vest front through the neck opening…..as well as the back section of the vest.
Poke out corners and smooth out edges…..and then iron your seams flat.
Then flip the vest inside out and line up the raw side edges. Pin the edges of the sides to the edges of the back piece.
Sew together, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (or whatever seam allowance you gave yourself) and then zig-zag the raw edges.
Turn the vest right side out again and then tuck the raw edge of the opening at the neck, in towards the inside a 1/4 inch (or whatever your seam allowance is) and then hand sew the opening shut. (Need help with hand sewing??)
Now…..time to cut the strips of fabric for the front closures.
Cut two strips of fabric that are 2 inches wide…..and about 20 inches long each. Place the two strips together (with right sides together) and then sew along each long edge, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Turn the tube right side out, iron flat, and then top-stitch along both long side.
Cut 2 1/2 inches of your strip off and then slide one end through the bottom of the buckle, up through the top, and back down the other slot of the buckle. Fold the very end under a 1/4 inch, and then another 3/4 of an inch. Pin in place.
Then sew the folded fabric in place. And then repeat with the other 2 buckles.
Along the back side of each of the buckles, fold the raw end over a 1/4 inch….and then pin in place. (Repeat with the other 2 buckles.)
Place each buckle down onto the vertical edge of the vest opening (with the folded side of each buckle face down), and pin in place.
Sew each buckle in place, securing the folded under flaps of fabric in place.
Cut 3 more strips of fabric from your remaining strip of fabric, that are 3 1/2 inches long each. Sew a tight zig-zag along one end of each of the strips……to keep them from fraying.
Then attach them to the opposite side of the vest opening from each of the 3 buckles.
And lastly, hand sew some little buttons around the seam of each of the shoulders.
And that’s it for the vest.
Now, onto the satchel. The shape of your bag doesn’t have to be perfect…..but just cut a front and a back piece, exactly the same size (with an added 1/4 inch along the sides and bottom and an extra inch at the top). My pieces were about 8 1/2 inches wide and 9 inches tall (including the seam allowance)……..with the 2 bottom corners a bit curved.
Place the front and back pieces together and sew along the sides and bottom, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
Then, turn right side out and iron flat very gently. (You may want to test some scrap vinyl fabric with the iron first……so you can make sure your vinyl isn’t going to melt.) Then fold the upper edge down toward the inside of the bag an inch and sew in place.
Iron flat if needed.
Then, cut 2 long strips of vinyl that are long enough to cross over your subject’s chest and attach to the bag….plus an extra inch at both ends for a seam allowance. (My strips were 33 inches long.) Place your two strips together with “wrong” sides together and sew together along each long edge, using a 1/8 seam allowance. (Need help sewing with vinyl that sticks??) Trim off any uneven edges and don’t worry about the raw edges……because vinyl won’t fray.
Then, place each end of your sewn strip inside the bag right at the side seams, overlapping by an inch. Pin in place.
Then, sew in place with 2 lines of stitches.
Now, cut a bag closure flap piece that fits between the two straps at the sides and is as long as you’d like it to flap over.
Cut another piece that’s exactly the same size as the first one. Place them together with “wrong” sides together…….and sew around the sides and then bottom curved edge.
Place the straight un-sewn edge of the flap inside the bag between the straps and overlap by 1 inch. Sew the flap to the bag, with 2 seams.
Then add some velcro to the under side of the flap and the front of the bag.
Sew the velcro in place…….and add an X to the center of the front velcro piece.
And then……..as for the frying pan, it’s just a mini little egg pan and is purely for the whole “look” of Tangled. And the sword is something that my husband made, even though Flynn Rider didn’t really hang one from his belt. Connor wanted one and my husband Steve really wanted to make one……so he made one from wood and painted it. :)
And lastly, the pants. I just made some basic pants with an elastic waistband.
I cut out the pieces for the pants by using another pair of pants as a pattern, just like I did with the Bert Costume pants. I didn’t even hem the bottom, because I knew these would just be tucked into boots. I simply using pinking shears along the bottom, to keep them from fraying.
And that’s it. Flynn Rider is ready for some adventure! :)
Enjoy!
-Ashley
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Hi, I’m Ashley—the DIY-enthusiast behind this crazy blog!
