When our kids turn 8, it’s a pretty big deal in our home. This is the age where they can choose whether or not to be baptized a member of our church. (More about our faith here.) Elli has been talking about the day she would get baptized, for years. And as part of her big day, we decided to get her a set of really nice scriptures. She has had a paperback copy for years…..but they have gotten tattered and marked up and we’ve always kind of thought that giving them a nice leather bound set of scriptures would be a great baptism gift for our kids. (Okay, I received my very first really nice set of scriptures when I was 8 too….so that may have something to do with that mindset. :))
Those scriptures are something that she can now take to church with her each Sunday and use during Sunday school (or Primary as we call it in our church) — but also here at home. She has been on a memorizing kick lately, so having her own new set to reference quick verses has been perfect! But, as you can probably predict, an 8 year old carrying around a nice set of scriptures with hundreds and hundreds of super thin pages inside…..yeah, we needed to protect that thing. :)
So, I created a little carrying case for her….including handles, a snap closure, and a really simple faux leather base for extra durability. And let’s just say she’s TICKLED PINK to have her very own scriptures and case!
She was baptized on January 3rd but I didn’t quite have her little carrying case finished (aka: hadn’t even started it yet). But that’s okay…..she was one delighted little girl to be making a big decision for herself on January 3rd, and that was enough for one day. The scriptures and new case was just frosting saved for another day!
This case could be made for a scripture set of any size, your family Bible, your favorite book, a journal, some study manuals — whatever you want! It really is simple to customize to whatever size you need….and I’ll show you that down below.
Your book will stay snugly in place by tucking the front and back cover inside the inner compartments.
And the simple magnetic closure will keep the case closed and will protect those pages while not in use.
Now Elli is ready for toting her new scriptures around with her.
And let’s be honest, she enjoys anything that even slightly resembles a purse…..so she’s a happy little lady!
Every page in its place…..nice and secure within her little Carrying Case. Perfect.
This girl is growing and growing and I’m still trying to wrap my head around that…..but I’m also just trying to enjoy watching her become an incredibly special young lady. Man, this girl is a sweet one!
Would you like to make a carrying case of your own??
Okay, let’s get to it!
- Medium weight fabric (amount depends on carrying case size….but I used about 1/4 yard of 44″ wide bolt fabric)
- Interfacing (Used to thicken up your fabric. More about interfacing here.)
- Faux or real leather pieces (amount depends on carrying case size….but I used about 1/4 yard of 44″ wide bolt faux leather)
- Magnetic snap closure
- Measuring Tape (the flexible sewing type)
Before cutting anything, you’ll need to do a little measuring. First let’s decide how large to make the cover for your book to slip inside.
Begin by placing your measuring tape about halfway down the front cover of your book…
…then close the front cover and begin wrapping around the front of your book.
Then wrap the measuring tape around the spine of the book and then back and around the back cover to the inside. Look to see what the measurement is about halfway over from the edge of this back cover. Write down your number (mine was 15 1/2 inches)…..but then add 1 more inch, which will be used for a 1/2 inch seam allowance along both edges. Add those up — and this is the WIDTH you need. (For example: My book width measurement was 15 1/2 and then I added 1 inch, so 16 1/2 inches was the width I needed.)
Then, measure the height of your book. And then write down that number (mine measured 6 inches)……but then add 1 inch just to give the book a half inch of protection above the top edge and the bottom edge of the book. And then add 1 more inch, which will be used for a 1/2 inch seam allowance along both edges. Add those up — and this is the HEIGHT you need. (For example: My book height measured 6 inches tall and then I added 1 inch, and then 1 more inch, so 8 inches was the height I needed.)
So, use those 2 numbers you determined up above, to cut 2 pieces of your main fabric. SO, here are my 2 main pieces of fabric, which are both 8 x 16 1/2 inches. (And ignore that strip of dark blue along the edge of the bottom piece. I cut this fabric from an old table cloth.)
Now, cut 2 pieces of your interfacing and iron them onto the WRONG side of each of your fabric pieces. Then set them aside.
Now, the leather strip along the bottom of the carrier is optional…..but I think it’s a great design feature but it also keeps the bottom more durable. But you’ll need to decide how far up the case you want to leather piece to rest. From a visually appealing perspective, I tend to do things in thirds. So, measuring from the spine up towards the book pages, a third up was about 1 3/8 inches for me…..so that’s what I decided to use. So, I placed the end of my measuring tape 1 3/8 inch from the spine, then wrapped it around the spine……
…..and then around to the other side of the book and up 1 3/8 inches from the spine (mine measured 5 inches). Now, add 1 inch to that measurement so that you can tuck the two outer edges under 1/2 inch. Add those up — and this is your leather WIDTH measurement. (For example: My measurement around my book spine was 5 inches, and then I added 1 more inch, so 6 inches was the width I needed.)
Then, use the height measurement that you came with up above, and use that same measurement for your leather HEIGHT measurement.
So, my height measurement from my fabric up above, was 8 inches……so I cut a piece of faux leather that was 6 x 8 inches.
Then place your leather piece directly along the center of ONE of the fabric pieces. (Pin in place to keep the leather right at the center.)
Then fold both outer edges under 1/2 inch and then top-stitch (nice and close to the folded edge) to secure the faux leather to the fabric.
Then, place both of your 2 main fabric pieces together, with right sides together.
Then, sew them together around the outer edges, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance. But be sure to leave about 1 4 inch opening along end (for turning right side out).
Now, clip each of the 4 corners to eliminate bulk. (More on clipping corners and curves here.)
Turn the fabric right side out through the opening, poke out the corners, and then iron flat. Fold the edges of the opening toward the inside 1/2 inch and iron flat.
Now, I forgot to do this step until later on (that’s why the picture below shows the straps and snap already attached)……but go ahead and stitch all the way across the edge that has the opening, about 1/8 of an inch from the edge, securing the opening closed. And do as I say, not as I do! ;)
Now, back to where we were…..without the straps attached. ;)
Wrap the cover around your book, making sure that it’s centered and that both ends are folded over evenly and the same amount around each book cover.
Then, because you’ll be lifting those end flaps several times from here on out, place pins at both sides of the flap, marking exactly where the fabric is folded. Do the same to both folds.
Next, use your measuring tape and place it along the open edge of your book, creating a handle shape. Overlap each end of the mock handle onto the book, about 1 1/2 inches (or more if your book is larger). Take note of this measurement and write it down. (Mine was 12 inches from one end of my mock handle to the other.) And then add 1/2 inch to that measurement. (For me, that made my handle strip length 12 1/2 inches long.)
Then, decide how wide you want your handles to be. (I decided on 1 inch wide.) Add 1/2 inch to that width measurement of your choosing (for 1/4 inch seam allowance along both sides). Add those together. (For me, that made my handle strips 1 1/2 inches wide.)
So, using the measurement above, my handle dimensions were 12 1/2 x 1 1/2 inches.
Cut 4 strips of your faux leather to make 2 handles using the determined measurements from above.
Then place 2 of your strips together, (right sides together), and sew along both edges, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance (the 1st strip shown in the photo below). Then (referring to the 2nd strip in the photo below), turn the tube right side out, iron flat, then top-stitch (really close to the outer edge) all the way ALL 4 edges. BUT BE SURE to place a thin piece of fabric over your faux leather while ironing. Faux leather can melt and warp if it gets to hot, just just be cautious while ironing. (And if you need help, here’s a tutorial on turning a tube right side out.)
Trim off the uneven edges at both ends, without cutting through the seam. (Now, because it’s faux leather, it won’t fray. And turning those edges under would be really bulky and hard to do.) Repeat with both straps.
Now, with your flap still folded under on your case, place one of your straps onto the fabric of the cover, and position it just how you want it. And overlap the 2 ends onto the case past the fold, just like you determined up above. (So mine overlap about 1 1/2 inches.) Pin in place.
Now, lift up the flap of the case (to get it out of the way) and sew each handle down to the fabric.
The way you attach your handle to your case is totally up to you……but I attached them by sewing a rectangle shape and then sewing an X through it.
Repeat the same steps to attach the other handle.
Now, place the case around your book again and fold the flaps down around the book covers. Now, use your measuring tape again to decide how long you want your closure flap to be. I decided I wanted the closure to come down a little longer than where my handles were attached. But along the back side of the case, I wanted the closure attached a little shorter than the handles……but again, it’s up to you and your preference.
Once you decide how long you want your closure to be, add 1/2 inch to that measurement. (I wanted my closure to be 6 inches long, so after adding 1/2 inch, my closure length was 6 1/2 inches long.)
Then, I decided I wanted my closure to be 1 1/2 inches wide. Whatever width you choose, add another 1/2 inch to that measurement. (So I added 1 1/2 and 1/2 and got 2 inches.)
Then, cut 2 pieces of your faux leather using those measurements. So, my closure pieces were both 6 1/2 x 2 inches. (And those are the 4 pieces you’ll need for the magnetic snap in the picture below.)
Before sewing the closure strip together, you’ll need to attach your snap to one of the pieces of leather. Some snaps will attach a little differently, but here’s how I attached mine. I centered one of the snap ends onto one end of the leather, about 1 inch from the end. I marked where the two prongs would need to go through the fabric.
Then I fold the fabric right where those marks were and made tiny cuts with my scissors.
Then I opened it back up and poked those prongs of the snap right through.
Along the back, I placed the metal backing piece and then folded over each of those prongs.
Then, I placed the two pieces of leather together with right sides together, and sewed them together along the 2 long edges, using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then, I turned it right side out, and then ironed flat and top-stitched around all 4 edges, just like I did with the handles up above. And then I trimmed the ends as well. (Just be sure to place a thin piece of fabric over the faux leather while ironing.)
Then, I placed the closure onto the case right where I wanted it, and made 2 small marks with the prongs needed to go through.
Then, I first folded the flap of the case up and out of the way and then made 2 small cuts and pushed the other side of the snap through the fabric.
Then I added the backing pieces and folded over the prongs, just like I did above with the other snap piece.
Then, I folded the flaps of the case back down in place, removed the pins, and then sewed each flap in place along both sides.
Here’s a closer look of where I actually sewed. I sewed from each upper corner, down to where the faux leather begins. And you don’t want to sew along the top because that’s where your book cover will slide in.
And that’s it.
Your very own customized Scripture (or any other book) Case. Ready for toting!